Alpine Climbing Routes in Austria

The Austrian Alps offer an extraordinary variety of climbing opportunities. From the dramatic limestone towers of the Northern Limestone Alps to the glaciated peaks of the High Tauern, climbers of all abilities can find routes that match their skills and ambitions. This guide introduces some of the most rewarding climbing areas and routes in Austria.

Understanding Austrian Climbing Grades

Before exploring routes, familiarize yourself with the grading systems used in Austria:

• UIAA grades (I-XII): Used for rock climbing difficulty
• Via Ferrata grades (K1-K6 or A-F): Indicate via ferrata difficulty
• Alpine grades (F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED): Overall route seriousness including objective hazards
• SAC scale (T1-T6): For hiking trails and approaches

Austrian route descriptions typically combine these systems to give a complete picture of what to expect. Always research thoroughly and choose routes within your capability level.

Grossglockner: Austria's Highest Peak

At 3,798 meters, Grossglockner stands as Austria's highest mountain and a prestigious objective for alpinists. The mountain is located in the Hohe Tauern National Park and offers several routes of varying difficulty.

Normal Route via Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte

The most popular route follows the classic path from the Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (3,454m) via the Glocknerleitl ridge. This route requires:

• Solid glacier travel skills
• Experience with crampons and ice axe
• Rope work for crevasse rescue
• Good fitness for the altitude

The climb is typically graded PD+ (peu difficile) with UIAA grade II scrambling sections. Most parties complete the climb in two days, staying overnight at the hut. The best season is June through September, with July and August being most popular.

Grossglockner commands respect. Despite its accessibility, the mountain sees several accidents each year. Never underestimate alpine conditions and always consider hiring a certified guide for your first attempt.

The Dachstein Massif

The Dachstein, straddling the border of Upper Austria and Styria, offers exceptional climbing on dramatic limestone formations. The Dachstein glacier is one of Austria's largest, and the area features everything from gentle via ferratas to serious alpine routes.

Recommended Routes

Hoher Dachstein (2,995m) - Normal Route: A classic alpine climb involving glacier crossing and a final rock section. Graded PD, suitable for experienced alpinists. The route passes the spectacular "Schulter" (shoulder) with commanding views.

Johann Klettersteig: An excellent via ferrata for intermediates, this route climbs the south face with spectacular exposure. Graded K4 (D), it requires via ferrata equipment and a good head for heights.

Irg Klettersteig: A more challenging via ferrata option, this route tackles steep rock and demands significant upper body strength. Graded K5 (E), recommended only for experienced via ferrata climbers.

The Wilder Kaiser

The Wilder Kaiser range in Tyrol is legendary among rock climbers. These dramatic limestone towers offer some of Austria's finest traditional climbing on impeccable rock quality.

Classic Routes

Fleischbank Southeast Face (UIAA V): One of the most famous routes in the Alps, this classic line follows crack systems up the impressive southeast face. A long day for strong parties, or better attempted from a bivy.

Predigtstuhl North Ridge (UIAA IV): A moderate but exposed ridge climb with outstanding positions. The route is well-protected with fixed equipment in key sections.

Totenkirchl via ferrata: For those seeking via ferrata adventure in the Wilder Kaiser, this route offers classic protected climbing with genuine alpine ambiance.

Wildspitze: Tyrol's Highest

At 3,768m, Wildspitze is the highest peak in Tyrol and the second highest in Austria. Located in the Oetztal Alps, it offers more accessible high-altitude climbing than Grossglockner while still demanding respect.

Taschachhaus Route

The most popular approach starts from the Taschachhaus (2,434m). The route crosses the Taschachferner glacier and climbs the north ridge. Key considerations:

• Glacier conditions vary significantly - check current reports
• Route finding can be challenging in poor visibility
• Crevasse danger requires roped travel
• Final summit rocks involve easy climbing (UIAA II)

The route is graded PD and typically requires 4-5 hours from the hut. Early starts are essential to catch firm snow conditions.

Via Ferrata Highlights

Austria pioneered via ferrata climbing, and the country offers hundreds of protected climbing routes. Here are some outstanding options across different difficulty levels:

Beginner Via Ferratas (K1-K2)

Stuibenfall Klettersteig (Oetztal): A spectacular route beside Austria's highest waterfall. Great introduction to via ferrata with mostly moderate climbing and excellent fixed equipment.

Seewand Klettersteig (Achensee): A scenic route above the beautiful Achensee lake. Perfect for building confidence on protected climbing routes.

Intermediate Via Ferratas (K3-K4)

Che Guevara (Pietramurata): Dramatic and athletic, this route features long vertical sections and requires good stamina. Outstanding position above the Sarca valley.

Innsbrucker Klettersteig (Nordkette): An accessible urban via ferrata directly above Innsbruck. Technical sections and stunning views of the city below.

Advanced Via Ferratas (K5-K6)

Kaiser Max Klettersteig (Martinswand): Historical route with very exposed sections. Named after Emperor Maximilian I, who allegedly became stranded on these cliffs.

Kaiserjager (Seefeld): Extremely demanding route requiring exceptional upper body strength and climbing ability. Only for very experienced via ferrata climbers.

Planning Your Austrian Climbing Trip

Best Seasons

The optimal climbing window depends on your objectives:

• High alpine routes (glacier climbs): June through September
• Rock climbing: May through October
• Via ferrata: May through October (lower routes year-round)
• Ice climbing: December through March

Mountain Huts

Austria's extensive hut system is a major asset for climbers. Operated primarily by the Austrian Alpine Club (OeAV) and German Alpine Club (DAV), these huts provide accommodation, meals, and shelter throughout the mountains. Key points:

• Reservations are essential during peak season
• Hut membership (OeAV or reciprocal clubs) provides discounts
• Bring a sleeping bag liner and hut slippers
• Cash is often the only payment method accepted

Responsible Climbing

As climbers, we share responsibility for protecting the mountain environment:

• Stay on established routes and trails
• Pack out all waste, including food scraps
• Respect wildlife and nesting birds (seasonal climbing restrictions apply in some areas)
• Support local communities and hut operators
• Report trail and route conditions to help other climbers

The Austrian Alps have been a climbing destination for over a century. By climbing responsibly, we ensure future generations can enjoy these magnificent mountains as we do.